Rinjani Package, Mount Merbabu
This Ribu is one of the most popular hikes in Central Java, and has
spectacular views to other volcanoes in all directions from the summit
area. It has five calderas, Condrodimuko, Kombang, Kendang, Rebab and
Sambernyowo but no serious volcanic activity has been reported here for
many decades. Merbabu can be climbed from several trails near Kopeng in
the north (less than two hours by car from Semarang) with starting
points at Thekelan, Cunthel and Wekas, or from the south at Selo
(between Merbabu and Merapi
and closer to Solo). There is also a newer trail from the west at
Suwanting which is getting popular with hikers from Yogyakarta. As is
often the case in Central Java, the basecamps at the trailheads
(especially Wekas and Cunthel) are great places to get some rest, cheap
coffee and noodles, and chat to other hikers.
The best hike is probably a traverse from north to south, because the
climb from the north is a gentler slope and there are great views to
Merapi when descending on the southern route. However, for those
travelling from Jakarta for the weekend, it probably makes sense to use
two of the northern trails as buses and trains to/from Semarang take at
least two hours less than to Yogya and Solo. Do note however that there
is a tricky section of trail just below the summit when approaching on
one of the northern routes and not all hikers may be keen to attempt
this. This hike could be completed in a day by very fit people, but an
overnight stay on one of the summits is recommended. From the north, the
hike is called the “seven summits” based on the fact that are indeed
seven summits, although a few of them are more of a small bump on the
ascent.
The starting point closest to Kopeng is Thekelan
village (1,600m elevation), where you are requested to register at the
tiny National Park Office. It is a long 6 to 8 hours up to the summit
and you will need a sunhat and sunscreen as most of the trail is not
forested. This has an upside of course – views are breathtaking,
particular towards Sindoro and Sumbing.
There are 4 “pos” or shelters: 1) Pending (1,936m); 2) Pereng Putih
(2,162m); Gemuk Menthul (2,330m) where there is a water source; and
Lempong Sampan (2,510m). Strong hikers should take no more than 2 hours
to reach Pos 4, but your porters may need longer. After the 4 pos, there
are the seven summits. The first is Watu Gubug (2,735m) and the second
is more obvious and called Watu Tulis or Pemancar or Menara (‘tower’ in
English) (2,900m) where there is an old radio mast. It should take
strong hikers no more 3 hours to get to this point.It is also where you
meet the trail to/from Cunthel.
After Watu Tulis/Menara/Pemancar, the path drops down a little to
Batas Kabupaten (2,840m) – a short cement pillar marking district
boundaries. Here you meet the path coming up from the third northern
route, Wekas. Just before the climb starts to Summit 3, there is a
possible source of water near to an obvious crater area – a large
outcrop of white/yellow sulphurous clay soil. You are likely to be able
to smell sulphur in the air. You drop down an obvious path to the right
and if you are lucky can hear the stream below very clearly. This area
is a popular camping spot for those who do not want to hike all the way
to the summits over 3,000m. If you do camp here, it means an early
morning start if you want to get to the summits for sunrise, and you’ll
miss the best views of the sunset.
Continuing along the ridge, the climb starts to Summit 3 via a flat
area known as Helipad (2,895m) where there is a prominent memorial. To
the right is an attractive minor summit called Gunung Kukusan, which
strangely is not included in the ‘seven summits’ list. Summit 3 is Geger
Sapi (2,987m) is not really much of a summit, and is more of a small
hump on the fairly relentless steep climb towards Summit 4. This section
is known as Jembatan Setan (Devil’s Bridge) and offers great views back
down to the north – from some angles the range resembles Machu Picchu.
As you reach the summit ridge (3,080m), you can turn left to climb
the last few metres (i.e less than ten minutes) to Summit 4, Syarif
(3,119m). This is a fabulous camping spot, with views of Sumbing,
Sindoro, Merbabu’s highest summits and Merapi. There are surprisingly
many good flat camping areas, and you may well have the whole of Puncak
Syarif to yourself, until the sunrise hikers make their way up from
Summit 3.
Another great camping spot is Summit 6, which is near the true summit
and called Kenteng Songo (3,142m). To reach Summit 6 from Summit 4, you
drop back down and hike along the ridge between the summits. The path
actually passes around the south-east side of Summit 5, Ondo Rante
(3,100m), before the final steep climb to reach Summit 6. Both Ondo
Rante and the steep scramble beneath Kenteng Songo are a little
challenging, but whereas Ondo Rante can be avoided, if you want to bag
Merbabu from this side you will need to take great care ascending a
steep, rocky section of cliff then scree with a little bit of exposure.
Kenteng Songo has numerous signs at the top and seems to be the most
popular of all the tops, especially at sunrise during weekends, when
many hikers head up from Selo. Most of interesting of all are the
ancient-looking stone jars at the top which look like miniature versions
of Laos’ famous stone jars near Phonsavan. A short hop from Summit 6 is
Summit 7 – Triangulasi – which appropriately has a pile of stones and a
blue cement rock at the very highest point (3,145m). Triangulasi is the
true summit of Gunung Merbabu, being three metres higher than Kenteng
Songo.
All three of the main campsite areas offer wonderful views eastwards to Gunung Lawu, northwards to Telomoyo and Ungaran
and south to Gunung Merapi, but the highest peak is definitely the best
for watching Merapi. On your second day, return on a northern route or
follow the steep but well-used track down to Selo (the
village nestling between Merbabu and Merapi) which leads down from both
Triangulasi and Kenteng Songo. This will take at least 4 hours and is
hard on the knees. It passes through Jemblongan, Savana 2, Pos 3, Savana
1, Pos 2 and Pos 1, and the higher areas are very popular with campers.
After the steepest part of descent along the eroded trail you reach a
fairly flat grassy area where the trail gives you two choices; take the
left (more easterly) option and drop down through some open forest that
becomes a denser as you descend further. Another hour or two and you’ll
reach some pine plantation and suddenly see the village that marks your
exit from Merbabu National Park, and the end of a fantastic hike.
The Cunthel trail: Basecamp is at 1,670m. Walk
through the friendly village and up the cement track which ends at
1,770m. The trail initially leads through pleasant forest and has
several posts as follows…. Bayangan 1 (1,855m) where there is a decent
shelter, Bayangan 2 Gumuk (2,110m), Pos 1 Watu Putut (2,235m), Pos 3
Kedokan (2,430m), Pos 3 Kergo Pasar (2,570m). It should take no more
than 3 hours to reach Menara where you meet the trail from Thekalan.
This trail is a good option to head down on if you are descending back
to the north (i.e towards Salatiga and Semarang).
The Wekas trail: Basecamp is at 1,780m making this
friendly village a very attractive starting point and perhaps better
than Thekelan. Following a thin white water pipe for a considerable
amount of time, the trail leads up past a grave (1,885m), Bayangan 1
(2,055m), Pos 1 Tegal Arum (2,100m), Bayangan 2 (2,250m), Pos 2 Wekas
(2,505m) which is a large flattish area popular with campers, Watu
Kumpul (2,755m) near an obvious crater area, Pos 3 Wekas (2,825m) which
is just before Batas Kabupaten (2,840m) which is on the Thekelan and
Cunthel routes too. Strong hikers can reach this point in under 4 hours.
The Suwanting trail:
Apparently there are three posts (Lembah Lempong, Shelter Bendera, and
Ndampo Awang) and like the Selo approach there are great views to
Merapi.
Bagging information by Andy Dean and Daniel Quinn (last updated in July 2017).
Practicalities
Getting there
There are plenty of flights and train services from
Jakarta to both Semarang and Solo. From there, public transport is
available to both starting points but it will take much longer than if
you can arrange your own transport.
Accommodation
Plenty available in and around Kopeng, limited accommodation available in Selo.
Permits
Register at one of the basecamps and pay the small entry fee. Take a photocopy of your passport photo page with you.
Water sources
Available at Pos 2 on the Wekas route. Supplies usually
available at Gemuk Menthul (2,330m) and sometimes between Watu Tulis
(2,900m) and Summit 3 on the Thekelan route.
Local Average Monthly Rainfall (mm):
Location
Origins and Meaning
Ashy Mountain. The name Merbabu probably evolved from merabu or merawu which consists of the prefix mer– and the base word abu or awu. Mer– (same as the Indonesian-Malay ber-) means “to have/possess the quality expressed in the base word”, and abu / awu means “ash”. So Merbabu means “the ashy one” referring to ash expelled during the mountain’s incessant eruptions. Merbabu hasn’t erupted in recent historical times, but the name Mount Ashy may represent a memory of the mountain that goes back well beyond recorded history. See also Mount Lawu. (George Quinn, 2011)Links and References
Wikipedia EnglishWikipedia Indonesia
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